Detailed Donor Parts List
This list is in no particular order and is useful as a guide to what to strip from the donor.
Parts needed to assemble the Goblin can vary based on the donor selection and your final goals.
Keys: If you do not have a key, save the driver side door lock. A key blank can be made from the lock (with a new chip). The control systems can re-learn the new chip. We are working on getting full instructions of how to do this.
Electrical System
During disassembly, take your time to unclip or unplug wires, switches and connectors. Many of these connectors will be reused. Do not cut any wires!
- Wiring (refer to the powertrain section for the powertrain wiring)
- The wiring of the car snakes through the chassis under the carpet.
- There are several wiring harnesses that stay intact during disassembly
- The powertrain harness - The engine, transmission - powertrain harness “plugs” into the chassis and should not be removed from the powertrain assembly
- Frontend harness - headlight, horn, outside temperature, windshield washer pump etc harness
- Dashboard harness - within the dashboard
- Dashboard heater harness - there is a separate heater / AC harness in the dashboard. It connects all the various elements necessary for controlling heat and AC.
- Main harness - from under the hood to the rear end of the car. This harness contains subsets of wires (radio speakers, airbag actuation, Sirius/XM radio antenna, door and seat belt switches). Some of these will be removed later. Tagging many of the small plugs on this harness is useful while removal as once the harness is removed at least you will know other nearby plugs. Most of the plugs are not interchangeable so they will only plug into one device.
- Main Battery power harness - from battery in trunk to front of car
- Starter power harness
- Headlight and tail light pigtails
- You'll need the connectors and a few inches of the wires going toward the light bulbs
- Engine compartment fuse block with plastic housing and lid
- Thick positive cable that goes from the trunk to the fuse block (battery harness)
- Ground cable in the trunk
- keep the ground cable amperage module (not applicable to all donor trims)
- Engine Control Module
- Transmission Control Module (for automatics only)
- Body Control Module
- The body control module is located to the left of the front passenger leg area
- Fuel pump
- Be very careful with the hoses so that you don’t break the plastic fittings coming out of the pump.
- Save the rubber O-ring that is under the flange of the pump
- Horn (needed to pass many state inspections)
Powertrain
The engine, transmission, subframe and front suspension come out as one unit. We like to refer to this as the powertrain assembly.
- Powertrain assembly (includes the following)
- subframe
- powertrain
- engine (including the following)
- intake manifold
- exhaust manifold
- alternator
- transmission
- axles
- front suspension
- knuckles
- struts with springs and upper spring buckets
- bearing hubs
- control arms
- sway bar (optional)
- steering rack
- brakes
- front rotors and calipers
- not required for automatics using our optional parking brake kit
- not required for manual donor
- front rubber hoses (will be used at rear of Goblin)
- front rotors and calipers
- Powertrain wiring
- All of the powertrain wiring can be removed from the car while still attached to the powertrain assembly.
- Primary O2 sensor (first sensor located in the exhaust down pipe). This has dual child proof locks, a little colored latch (pull it out) that keeps the main latched. Save the second sensor as a spare.
- Coolant tank and hoses
- Brake fluid reservoir
- Brake master cylinder
- Brake booster
- keep the vacuum line (you’ll need the end that goes into the booster
- Radiator hoses
- upper and lower
Interior
- Shifter
- automatics need to keep the single shifter cable
- manual cables are replaced with custom length cables in the kit
- Dash assembly
- gauge panel
- steering column with power steering and steering shaft with universal joints
- ignition switch (connected to steering column)
- pedal boxes
- dash wiring
- turn signal switch
- Front seats
- Keep if you don’t plan to run racing seats (racing seats recommended for increased head clearance in track frames)
- Two bolts on the back end of the seat frame
- Rear seat rail bolts
- You won’t need the seat rail but you will need the bolts
- Front seat belts
- keep if you don’t plan to run racing seat harnesses
- Some states require the reel type seat belts. You might want to hold on to yours until you get registered in case you need them.
- Parking brake parts
- If you’d like to use the DFKC parking brake kit, you will need to save extra parts from your donor
- Parking brake handle mechanism
- Aluminum guide tubes
- Parking brake cables
- The parking brake cables from donors with drum brakes will not work. If you donor has rear drum brakes, you’ll need to purchase SS parking brake cables. https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,C661271,parking+brake+cable,1696
Miscellaneous
- Keep every single fastener!
- Store fasteners in sandwich bags and label the bag to know where the fasteners came from
- Fuel filler neck with cap
- two screws at the top need to be removed (put them back in once you’ve removed the filler)
- Fuel filter
- base and SS/SC models
- SS/TC filter is built into the fuel pump
- Rear wheel bearing hubs
- Remove the brake drums - after brake fluid drained
- From the back side there are 4 nuts that attach the hub to the brake backing plate / suspension. Keep these nuts.
- Remove the lower (hard to get nuts first) - the rear spring may be rotated by hand if there is no load on the suspension to get a socket on an extender into the nut.
- Brake line spring clips
- These are U shaped metal clips that hold the ends of the brake lines